Champagne Glasses: Out With the Old, In With the NewSo all those champagne flutes lined up on the shelf that you enjoy filling when an occasion arises? They’re gone like yesteryears’ waist-high jeans. Are they family heirlooms, valuable crystal, expensive Riedel? No matter. Unless you can think of another use for them, they have to go.

Federico Lleonart, global wine ambassador for Pernod Ricard, has announced that the white wine glass is the best for a fine sparkling wine because it lets “the aromas express themselves better.” Our own wine critic Antonio Galloni from Vinous Media agrees.

The idea used to be that the tall and narrow champagne flute kept the wine colder and, more importantly, preserved the bubbles for a longer period, allowing a disaffected guest to observe their paths up to the top of the glass instead of participating in conversation.

The focus is now on aroma, which will be more intense in a wider glass.

So how should we recycle champagne flutes if we don’t want to part with them? Could they serve as vases for maybe small bamboo plants? Would they be hospitable to tiny fish? There doesn’t seem to be a really good answer.

But if we look at the glass as half full instead of half empty, so to speak, single-use tools are a waste of money and space. Instead, we might invest in a few more white wine glasses, which will accommodate the whole range of whites, now including sparkling wine, and maybe even a light red or two.

We though we had settled the champagne glass issue once and for all when we eliminated the wide and shallow coupe, which is now a shameful relic of ignorance. But no, scientific progress is unstoppable. We need to bury flutes too.

Happy New Year to all with my fervent wish that our glasses be filled with ample wine of all kinds, in a proper glass, of course, whatever that may be.